Installing glass block for shower

Do you want keep your existing drain in the same place? Do you want a round, square or linear drain? Do you want to use thinner glass blocks which cost less, are lighter to install and have more options for shapes? Would you like to incorporate grout free shower wall panels to speed the installation process and reduce your ongoing shower wall surround maintenance?

Layout cards for a glass block wall and shower pan design. Setting up a curved glass block shower layout. Design patterned or colored glass blocks in metric sizes.

Frosted or etched glass block wall designs in American or Metric sizes. These custom walls are one-of-a-kind.

Lower priced than metric designer blocks in series 2. Lighter weight — easier to maneuver and install. Provide more room inside the shower — An important factor for tub to glass block shower conversion is to maximize the inside space. Thinner glass blocks accomplish this goal.

Anyone can install these walls. Clear radial. Thickness comparison. Wave radial. Wave veer. Prefabricated curved glass block wall. Glass block steam shower with LED lights. Fun colored glass blocks for a dramatic design. Designer series glass blocks to create glass block shower walls with themes.

Consider modern art styles, beach themes and contemporary inspired linear angle and circular designs. Shower pans made for the glass block sections. Finished end blocks in clear and a few color designs provide a smooth outside edge for your glass block walls. Brown and clear wave pattern glass block prefab wall. Blue and frosted blue colored glass block shower wall. Minimalist bathroom with a frosted and wavy glass block privacy shower wall.

Frosted glass block shower wall design. Etched tree mural in a wave pattern glass block shower. Metallic glass block shower wall with a frosted stripe. Glass Block Shower Pan Options Step 3 — Choose the right glass block shower base Since the shower pan is the foundation of your glass block shower — the selection of the right system is critical. Solid Surface Glass Block Shower Base Solid surface glass block shower bases which are also called cultured granite shower pans are made by combining aluminum trihydrate crystals with specially formulated resins which add flexibility and strength.

Solid surface shower pan with a straight glass block wall top down view. Curved glass block wall with a solid surface shower base and rough wood laminate wall panels. Serpentine shaped solid surface shower pan and glass block wall. Solid surface bases are heavier than ready for tile shower pans. Expanded polystyrene shower base with prefab curved glass block sections.

Ready for tile shower pan for glass blocks during the rough in construction stage. Run a bead of silicone around the drain body. Install the pre-designed and pre-slopped pan. Eliminate rust between the blocks since the vinyl spacers provide the reinforcement needed both vertically and horizontally through the wall.

Ready for tile base is set in place. Waterproof tile wallboard installed after base is set. Silicone being applied to vinyl between glass block sections. Curved glass block wall sections being installed.

Setting a straight sections using thinner glass blocks. Grouting process can use sanded or urethane grout — urethane yields better long term results. When should I use a doorless glass block walk in shower vs. Straight walls with bronze colored glass blocks. Open design using frosted blocks. What type of shower pan is best for my glass block shower? Can these shower pans be made any size, shape and with a custom drain location? Solid surface shower pan. Ready-for-tile shower pan.

What sizes, shapes, and colors of glass blocks are available? How tall should I make my glass block shower? Does it need to go to the ceiling? When should I have my walls built block by block by a mason and when should I use a prefabricated glass block shower wall panel kit? Should the glass block walls be installed before or after the shower surround system is put up?

Waterproof laminate wall panels. Solid surface wall panels. How can I add style to my glass block wall designs? Curved blue glass block shower wall. Etched tree mural. How do I finish the end of a glass block wall? Finished-end block. Style caps finishing the ends of a glass block wall with different sized blocks. How do I finish the top of the curb in a ready-for-tile glass block shower pan? Do I always need a curb cap for a shower pan for a glass block wall?

Rotate the loosely screwed anchors out of the way. Then, use a foam brush to apply a coat of primer to the top surface of the curb Photo 3 to help the mortar bond more strongly to it. Turn the panel anchors back into position, and then tighten and drive the screws into the remaining pilot holes. Cover each screwhead with a dab of silicone sealant. Be sure to cover the metal anchors. Our walk-in shower is built with 4- and 6-in. Set the first 4-in. Press one of the plastic spacers onto the side of the block near the curb, and tap the block into the mortar Photo 5.

Spread mortar onto both sides of a 6-in. Next, apply mortar to the side of another 6-in. Add a spacer, and repeat the process until you reach the curved section Photo 7. Lay the curved blocks with the special curved spacers that come in the kit Photo 8. Whenever you reach an anchor, apply mortar to each block that flanks it so it will be completely encased in mortar. After setting the fourth curved block, finish the course with an end block Photo 9.

Then, slide plastic spacers into the top of each mortar joint in the first course Photo Spread a layer of mortar across the top of the first course of blocks and lay the second course. But, before setting the third course, bend reinforcing wire to the shape of the wall and press it into the mortar Photo Trim the end of the expansion strip to the top of the blocks.

Then, set the long leg of an anchor into the mortar next to the wall and screw the short leg to the wall Photo Lay a new foam strip on the shower wall over the short leg of the anchor and begin the third course. Note that you must install reinforcing wire, a wall-attached panel anchor and a new expansion strip after every two courses. Continue laying glass blocks Photo Once the curved wall is five or six courses high, allow the mortar to set up for an hour or two. Glass block installation kits come with PVC bases to rest the blocks in.

Take one and measure it to the length of the wall, then cut it. Do the same with a PVC strip for the height of the glass block wall. If the blocks are free-standing, then cut 2, 1 for the base and 1 for the height. Then screw it down to it provides a stable base. Snap along these lines if your kits are designed this way. Screw the support strips to the wall and floor. Lay out the base strip where you want to start the block installation.

Then drill screws through the marked spots on the strip. Repeat the process for the wall supports. Some installation kits have screw plugs that go into the floor and wall before you drill the screws. Always follow the instructions provided on your installation kit. Method 2. Mix the mortar to bond the blocks together. Your installation kit may come with a bonding material. Otherwise, buy a mortar designed for use with glass blocks from a hardware store.

Measure out the amount of water that the mortar instructs you to use and pour it into a bucket. Then add the mortar and mix it with a shovel in a circular motion. Mix for minutes, until the mortar becomes a thick paste.

You may need to buy more than 1 pack, depending on the size of the job. If you have an electric mixer, this will make the job much faster. For some installations, like a shower, professionals recommend using caulk instead of mortar. Scoop some mortar with a trowel and spread it on the floor and wall of the corner.

Place a corner spacer into the mortar. Installation kits come with spacers to place between the blocks. Take a corner spacer and press it into the mortar at the corner. Make sure it touches the floor and wall directly, rather than floating on the mortar. Press the first block into the corner. Start by rubbing a thin layer of mortar on the side and bottom edges of the block that will contact the mortar. Then press it down into the corner so it rests on top of the spacer.

Place 2 spacers 8 inches 20 cm apart from the first block. These spacers go in between each block and remain there permanently encased in the mortar. Take the first one and press it into the corner of the first block.

Then lay a second one 8 inches 20 cm away. If the spacers still show after you press the blocks together, touch up the area with a bit more mortar to cover them. Alternatively, you could seal the mortar with caulk when it's cured.

This will cover any spacers or other imperfections. Spread mortar between the 2 spacers. Then spread mortar onto the side of the first block. Press the second block into position.

Spread mortar on the side and bottom edges of the block. Then press it down between the 2 spacers. Push it against the first block so the mortar binds them together.

Maintain that separation between all the blocks in this job. If you're using glue or caulk to bond the blocks instead of mortar, then place a plastic strip between each block with glue on each side. These strips should come with an installation kit that uses glue. Continue working down the line until you complete the first row. Follow the same procedure to lay each block.

Work until the first layer of blocks is complete. Attach a reinforcing strip across the top of the blocks. Once the first row is complete, reinforce the blocks before starting the second row. Installation kits come with reinforcing strips that go in between rows. Take the strip and screw it to the wall on one side.

Then stretch it across the blocks, making sure it touches each one. Then screw it to the wall on the opposite side. Cut them to the length of the wall plus 6 inches 15 cm on each side to allow room for the screws. Follow the directions provided for the correct reinforcement method. Build row-by-row until you complete the installation. Repeat the same process for each row.

Place spacers down, spread the mortar, and press each block down. When you complete a row, reinforce it with a reinforcing strip. Method 3. Let the mortar set for hours before washing the blocks. Even though you scraped away excess mortar, there is almost certainly some leftover on the blocks.